A Travellerspoint blog

Day 9: Roman Holiday Part 1- The Colossum

...and the best cannelloni ever!

overcast 13 °C

When in Rome…you must see the Colosseum! And today was the day. I had bought a guided group tour of the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palantine Hill, lasting several hours and covering quite a lot of ground. The tour guide was, quite luckily, an archaeologist with a wealth of knowledge and experience. The early (painful) start to the day was clearly of benefit when we had quite a quick entry to the Colosseum. Later in the day we would see hours of queues forming, and I was delighted not to be wasting my trip in them!

The Colosseum was breathtaking. Lots of history was shared, and I’ve made a mental note since it would take too long to repeat it here, and honestly my brain can’t contain all the information, to read up once again when I’m back on the history of Rome. However, a few interesting bits of information…the toilets were the ‘Facebook’ of Rome, where juicy gossip, business, and general socialisation occurred between the gents of the day. The Colosseum is thought to have once housed a great body of water in the centre in which the Romans played some sort of naval games, however our guide believed this may only have occurred once during construction of the Colosseum, before the lower levels were developed. Wild animals from around the world, including Africa, were brought as a spectacle for the people, and brought with them seeds of various flora. The grass and mosses at the bottom of the Colosseum are species found in Africa! Quite contrary to my previous understanding, it is believed that over the couple of hundred years of the Colosseum’s use, it was only actually used for around 22 occasions (some lasting several days, up to 100 days when it was inaugurated). A pretty hefty investment for something not to be used frequently, but it was due to the ‘free’ nature of the games put on in the stadium, and the requirement that there be a sponsor of the significant coin required to run the events, which were hard to come by.
Next on our tour was the Roman Forum, another fascinating area of archaeological intrigue, politics, deceit, and drama. It was amazing picturing from the remains of columns and foundations what it must have been like back in the day. The demise of Julius Caesar, the political development of the empire, the set of virgins being the only women to be held in high regard. I can’t believe how little I know of the history, and how fascinating it is! Clearly, many of these experiences I’m having are set to trigger a greater interest and further reading of the internet when I’m back…and poor.
Finally on our tour was the Palatine Hill, the remnants of the epic palace where Rome’s emperors lived in lavish luxury. Much of the marble and other architectural supplies were harvested to build other monuments, such as deck out the Vatican museum and St Peter’s church, as with the building materials of the Colosseum (although the bronze was melted down for other, military, uses).
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I had watched ‘Scam City’ before I left, a t.v. show by a Brit on the tourist scams likely to be encountered in major tourist cities such as Rome. One such scam was being ripped off by men dressed as gladiators near the Colosseum to get a photo, some charging as much as €20 per gladiator (so imagine if you’ve got two in the photo!). But I saw nothing like this, there were no gladiators hanging around, and generally did not encounter anything that made me concerned about my safety or being ripped off. Whilst there were constant announcements to look out for pick pockets, I equally did not see or hear anything which would have concerned me, and felt my bag and possessions were perfectly ok. Phew…Mum, you can relax!

After the visit to these incredible ancient sites, I went back to La Forchetta for lunch before nap-time. Had the second disappointing carbonara of my trip, and decided not to bother trying for a better one and focusing on trying a wider variety of Italian cuisine. I was reading ‘The Rosie Effect’, the second ‘Don Tillman’ book, and it was a great, easy read to pass the quiet solo meals with.

Had an epic nap for most of the afternoon, and felt thoroughly recharged. It had been an early start to the day, and I was keen to head out and have some fun with Carlos and Marta tonight!

We decided to walk to the Spanish Steps, and see the Trevi Fountain in the late evening when it was dark and lit up. We walked up Via Cavour, one of the main streets, and saw the Quattro Fontane (the Four Fountains) at the intersection of Via delle Quattro Fontane and Via del Quirinale. They are four late Renaissance fountains, one of which (to my delight), yet again featured a woman and a duck! But Marta corrected me, and shared that actually geese were employed and trained to protect the Roman city, by attacking unwanted guests!
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We made it to the Spanish Steps, but alas, they were under renovation and inaccessible to the public at the moment. It did not detract however, from the amazing view at their peak, and the busy surrounds of the piazza at its. We wandered around, and decided to head slowly for drinks and dinner before the Trevi Fountain experience. Pre-dinner Spritz and Mojitos were at a bar which served us antipasto plates as snacks. Delicious little morsels of salami, fava beans, cheese, and pickled radish and celery. Our dinner venue was eventually decided after several restaurants were full, and we had an amazing dinner of beef Carpaccio, truffle pasta, and fresh wood-fired pizza and of course, delicious house wine. Our bellies full, and the night wearing on, we decided the Trevi would have to wait for another night, and instead queued up at what is supposedly one of Rome’s best gelatarias, opposite one of Rome’s best pizzerias (also with huge queue, at 10:30pm or later at night!). A taxi home sped us to our food-coma-induced slumber.

Daily summary:
Aww-inducing moments of ancient history – 52
Cumulative meals at La Forchetta – 2
Audible gushes of praise for food-based products – 18
Minutes spent lining up for gelato – 8
Statuesque geese – 1

Squishing in just…one…more…bite…of…gelato….priceless!

Posted by jenniferhall 10:31 Archived in Italy Tagged italy roma rome tour tourist wine colosseum walking_tour pasta steak tiramisu_gelato Comments (0)

Day 8: Florence in the rain and other crank-inducing events!

Florence to Roma

rain 14 °C

Florence in the rain is beautiful…when you’re undercover…and extremely inconvenient when trying to fit the most sightseeing into your final moments of a great city as you can!

I checked out of the hostel, went to the café across the road for a croissant and café macchiato for brekky, walked around in the rain, tried to find the bus at the train station to head back to Palazzo Pitti for the costume exhibition, and in the end stood under the eave of a shop and texted people back home. It was time to wrap things up in good ol’ Florence, and move onto Rome! (Europe is clearly bringing out my inner poet).

I had booked a train to Rome for 4:30pm, and it was presently around midday, and I’d realised I’d double booked the Gallaria Borghese in Rome for a 5pm entry. I weighed up the options…miss a highly recommended gallery, entry price about €11, and stick with my current train time at a sunk cost of €27, or acknowledge the accounting principle that a sunk cost should have no part in your future investment decisions and fork out €44 for a whole new train ticket and make the gallery on time for 5pm. I decided on the latter, and purchased a new ticket for a 1:30pm departure from Florence. I got to Rome around 3pm, but had for whatever elusive reason gotten off one stop too early at the Tiburtina Rome station, rather than Termini, eventually found the bus, and arrived at the hostel. New Generation Hostel in Rome was absolutely fantastic! Beautiful room for four people, little nooks to get cosy in, and for the poor souls who usually have to climb a vertical ladder for the upper bunk a delightful little staircase. I got changed and refreshed, and tried to get to the Borghese but was running late, struggled choosing the best transport to get there, arrived cranky, and knocked that bad boy out , wang-less statues and duck-embracing ladies, in about 20 minutes. My apologies to all those people that recommended seeing the gallery – I know it to be amazing, but sometimes the lateness-induced-crank overrides logic.
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Walking back to the train station, it started to rain, so a quick taxi trip was needed, and the delightful driver made an excellent suggestion on somewhere near my hostel for dinner, La Forchetta (The Fork?) which would become my local lunch spot for the next two days as well. He had dined in the restaurant as a boy with his father, and had fond memories of the restaurant…and now, so do I. I ordered the most amazing cannelloni al forno (ricotta cheese stuffed tubes of Italian love, with a rich tomato sauce), followed by veal schnitty (totally superfluous since I was already full), and white cake with a shot of limoncello, which you dunk the cake in. The ‘house wine’ was €4 for a 375ml carafe which I left unfinished. It was nap-time.

I got back to the hostel, fully prepared for a 2 hour nap, and met my three new roomies! Marta, from near Milan in Italy; Carlos, from somewhere near Madrid in Spain, and Yogish, from America. Conversation flowed, and whilst I needed some rest and an early night in preparation for the first of two massive days in Rome, they prepared for a night out on the town. Plans were made to head out the following night with Carlos and Marta, and I greatly looked forward to the company and chats.

Daily Summary:
Rain-induced spontaneous (pricy) schedule amendments – 1
World record time for one of the best galleries in Rome – 20 minutes
Cannalonis consumed – 2
mL of house wine consumed – 310
New roomies - 3

Value of a good nap to get rid of the crank….priceless!

Posted by jenniferhall 10:20 Archived in Italy Comments (0)

Day 7: The duck chaser, the meat chaser, and the wang police

....and 500 steps!

semi-overcast 20 °C

Sometimes, like when I’m looking at my bank balance, I’m quite appreciative of a hostel, and other times, like at 3am in the morning when three new roomies decide to arrive, or at 8am when a jackhammer renders your alarm clock redundant, the thought of a quiet, private hotel room is a little more appealing.

This morning was dedicated to my favourite Florentine piece of architecture, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, or Il Duomo as it is commonly known. I wanted to see inside, including the museum showing the various renovations since the roman times, climb the dome, and climb the bell tower. Ambitious!

Inside the cathedral was similar, albeit proportionally much larger, as the church of Santa Maria Novella from the previous day. Beautiful mosaic and tiled floors, impeccably decorated ceiling frescos, and stained glass windows. The view of the interior of the dome, completely painted, makes you wonder how on earth this monster building and decoration was constructed and executed so many years ago. The engineering behind the dome is quite incredible, and was the largest dome in history until recent times, and was the first octagonal dome to be constructed without supporting beams. I went downstairs to have a look at the museum of Il Duomo, which shows the recently excavated original foundations of the church around which Il Duomo was constructed, dating back to Roman times.

My interest thoroughly piqued, I thought it was opportune to start my ascent up the bell tower before my legs knew what was going on. Four-hundred and fourteen steps to the top terrace for the most spectacular view of Florence I could have imagined! And as I climbed the final few dozen stairs, the time struck midday and I got to hear the echoing bells toll.

Next it was the baptistery, a smaller octagonal building which contains one of the most ornate and impressive ceilings of gilded art I’ve seen so far (and I’ve seen quite a few impressive ceilings in the short time I’ve been in Italy!). The floor mosaics are incredibly as well, however I must admit that a lot of my interest surrounds the Dan Brown Inferno story, a dramatic part of which takes place in the baptistery at the holy water pedestal. Unfortunately the line to climb the dome was too long, and in all honesty my spaghetti-legs protested to the thought of 500 more steep steps, so I gave them a break…by making them walk several more hours through the Uffizi gallery! Mwa ha ha.

I strolled to the Piazza della Signoria, of fake-David and giant golden turtle fame, stopping at the square for a lunch of salami and mozzarella toasted Panini (amazing!) waiting for Alyssia to join me. I witnessed the perils of cobblestones first hand between bites, with a poor old lady on a bike coming a croppa and spilling onto the road, but thankfully several well-meaning tourists got her back on track fairly quickly.

The Uffizi is one of Italy’s best art galleries and did not disappoint. Alyssia and I did all of the 1st and 2nd floors, with a quick coffee break between ‘religious painting number 482’ and Botticelli’s ‘Spring’ and ‘Birth of Venus’. These two Botticelli artworks were beautiful. I particularly liked the frock of the lady assisting Venus. It is a shame however, that with such a crowd of tourists all wanting to get up close and personal, that there really is only a moment to absorb the image, take a happy snap, and attempt to read the accompanying information before you are jostled towards the door by the throngs. Nonetheless, a moment in front of those great works was well worth it.

Hundreds of statues, portraits, and paintings later, and we were ready to move on. I know I have only been doing this European travel thing a short time, and I am still in my first dozen of no doubt several dozen museums, churches, and galleries, but already many of the religious paintings have blurred together, and whilst they are all quite striking, particularly when in situ I can recount only two images: Madonna with the baby Christ (with Christ on her left), and Christ on the cross. Similarly with the statues; David is obviously an incredibly memorable image to see for yourself, but many of the other statues blend together into a conglomerate of naked or semi-naked, blokes (half of which have lost their junk through supposed modesty back in the day), or ladies (and a couple of hermaphrodites, who I learnt was (and I wouldn’t reference me in any academic articles here) the incarnation of Hermes and Aphrodite who’s love was so strong they wanted their bodies joined together??? Something like that anyway.) My favourite statues so far, and every time I see one I get a warm fuzzy feeling, are the ones with the girls holding their pet duck. Or goose. Ah the ‘duck chaser’ from my high school years is alive and well!

From the Uffizi I did just a touch more shopping, then walked lemon-gelato in hand across the Ponte Vecchio with all the gold merchants to visit the Pitti Palace. I really wanted to see the costume gallery, with over 16,000 costumes from the Renaissance and no doubt other eras, and the Boboli gardens, but alas time was running out and I was only able to see the palace and the ‘modern’ art (still effing old though!). It was particularly apparent that in the palace, wangs were not appropriate, and the vast majority of the male statues were not packing.

Walking back, my mind, almost unable to be distracted from the immense pain in my legs from the hours and hours of walking and stair climbing, turned back to an incessant urge which had begun upon arriving in Italy. That of buying ‘loafers’. Approaching the Ponte Vecchio, there were quite a few Italian shoe and handbag stores, and I found a delightful pair of navy loafers...in which I shall loaf. That urge sated, I will now focus my attention to the ‘handbag’ and ‘beautiful winter coat’ projects of 2016.

Alyssia and I have been talking about sharing a bistecca al Florentina (i.e. super fat delicious juicy rare steak) since meeting the other day, and tonight was the night. Having negotiated to try a restaurant other than Mercato Centrale, we (post nap) headed towards a nice little restaurant I found near Il Duoma and settled in for a feast of epic proportions. Wine, martini, salami, polenta & porcini, and obviously the bistecca, chased with limoncello and santo e biscotto (biscotti dipped in some Italian alcohol). Absolutely phenomenal! We delighted in chatting with the French couple - Daniel and Brigitte - sitting next to us, aided by my Google translate app. They invited me for dinner at their apartment in Montpellier in a couple of weeks’ time, which I am very much looking forward to. And by sheer coincidence, the Spanish couple from last night strolled past and said hello! What a small town…

Daily Summary:
Stairs climbed – circa 500
Religious paintings – 1,290….or 2, I’m not sure
Missing wangs – 430
Grams of bistecca – 600

A conversation purely conducted via Google translate resulting in a dinner invite…priceless!

Posted by jenniferhall 15:31 Archived in Italy Tagged churches art statues palace italy florence cathedral ducks steak uffizi il_duomo limoncello wangs missing_wangs pitti_palace Comments (0)

Day 6: Cheese, truffles, and a 14-foot hottie!

A tour through Renaissance Florence and a love-affair with my truffle pasta.

overcast 20 °C

I’ve turned into a thief…a poverty stricken traveller resorting to stealing food. Gulp. Lucky the astute Italian brekky lady caught me and made me cough up the €1 for the bread roll I had hoped to have with my stinky cheese from Mercato Centrale last night.

The morning is dedicated to my Renaissance tour of Florence complete with skip the line entry to see my mate David in all his marble-giant-handed-glory. The tour started at Palazzo Strozzi, one of the two main families of Florence from eons ago, the other being the family of Medici. Like the Montagues and Capulets from Romeo & Juliet, they were in an ego-drive war. The Palazzo Strozzi was built with a bench seat around the perimeter as a gift to the weary people of the town, but also as a place where the townsfolk were required to sit to demonstrate which family they supported.
There was a similar bench seat around the Palazzo Medici.

I met the tour group and instantly started chatting with Nicole and Linda, a mother-daughter duo from New Zealand, travelling through Italy over a few weeks to experience history fuelled by Nicole’s passion for and study of ancient Rome. The tour guide, Laura, was excellent, and had an exceptional memory for the detail of all the buildings we passed and the history of the development of Florence.

We navigated a significant portion of Florence, including the Ponte Vecchio (the famous bridge where a myriad gold merchants are located), the arches under the Uffizi gallery, and Piazza della Signoria where the replica of David stands outside the Palazzo Vecchio. In this piazza is also the fountain with the statue of Neptune, and ‘the man who measures the clouds’ – a beautiful golden statue of a man standing on a ladder with a yardstick. In the centre of the square a golden man rides a giant golden turtle, whilst on the southern side there are more traditional sculptures, such as Purseo holding Madusas head, with the sculptors face cheekily carved into the back of Purseo’s head.
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The final stop of the tour was the Accademia to see Michelangelo’s Il Davide. I can safely say my love of tall, handsome, statuesque men is firmly intact. It is quite a breathtaking sculpture, and quite literally had me proclaiming ‘wow’ as I turned the corner to the corridor of Michelangelo’s unfinished sculptures to see David at the end. Most striking is how freaking huge his right hand is comparatively! Apparently, thanks to Google, this is because in the Middle Ages David was commonly thought to be ‘manu fortis’, or ‘strong of hand’. Also, did you know Michelangelo carved David from a piece of marble which had been classified as flawed and which another sculptor had decided not to continue using? And did you know that someone chucked a hissy fit in the Palazzo Vecchio one day, throwing a chair out the window (as you do), and broke poor David’s left arm into three pieces? Poor dude.
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Other than Il Davide, the Accademia, for me, did not hold as much interest as a tasty lunch, so with Nicole and Linda in tow, we decided to head (wait for it!)….back to the Mercato Centrale! At Andrew Speers’ suggestion, nay, insistence, I decided to try the pasta from the truffle place, and it was….spectacular! Creamy, with a generous quantity of freshly grated truffle…it was pure bliss. And accompanying it (to make the whole experience a little healthier and have at least one of my five veggies), I opted to try some fresh burato mozzarella, which is a version with a creamy soft centre – the cheese-equivalent of a Lindt Lindor ball – with ripe salted tomato and a drizzle of olive oil. Quite possibly the best meal I’ve had in Italy so far.

Back to the hostel for a nap, as is becoming customary, and then it was out once again for some explorations with Alyssia. We visited Santa Maria Novella church, near the Florence train station, which was absolutely stunning. It has a similar façade to the Il Duomo with green and white marble, something which appears quite distinctly ‘Florence’. The stained glass windows depicting biblical scenes were perfectly lit from the afternoon sun in the otherwise quite dark church, and are stunning. Our walk around Florence finished with a wine at a restaurant near Il Duomo called ‘Eataly’ (clever), before heading…you guessed…back to Mercato Centrale for dinner.
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They were handing out vouchers for free beer which was opportune, and for dinner I had the salami and artichoke toasted Panini from a very cute very odd man behind the bar, who was dancing and off with the fairies! He offered to get me another drink…then demanded a tip! Cheeky mongrel.
Alyssia and I ended up speaking with a lovely older couple from Spain (a town about 300km south of Barcelona) at the table behind us. He was in the fabric trade, and had travelled extensively with his work. She didn’t speak English. They were ballroom dancers, and he joked to Alyssia that he’d also taken up art classes a couple of hours a day because he wasn’t getting any…ummm….action at home, despite being ‘newlyweds’, having both been widowed in recent years. He proclaimed that he was much happier with his new wife and because she was so much better than the previous one! A few beers and giggles later, and quite possibly the best pain e chocolat (choccie croissant) I’ve ever eaten…warm, oozy…delicious…it was food-coma/bedtime.

Daily summary:
Trips to Mercato Centrale – 2
Amazing baked goods – 2
Weird food-servers – 1
Giant right hands – 1
Number of Davids seen (real and fake) – 2

Finding out the reason why some people take art class….priceless!

Posted by jenniferhall 14:31 Archived in Italy Tagged statues history italy florence tour david pasta mozzarella truffles il_davide madusa burato Comments (0)

Day 5: Verona to Florence...giant everything!

20 April 2016

sunny 24 °C

Day 4 – Verona to Florence – 20 April 2016

Have you ever been somewhere you know to be beautiful, you know others have loved, has exceptional history, and yet you cannot find the joy in it? That was my experience with Verona. As with many tourists, there’s not much about the history I recall other than the Romeo & Juliet and what I learnt in the movie ‘Letters to Juliet’ (which wasn’t much mind, you). And although it was a charming and pretty city, with historic terraces lining the cobbled streets, nothing resonated with me. Perhaps it was my frustration with the “Pasta Catastrophe of 2016” the day prior, or my exhaustion and ‘come down’ from several exceptional days of utter joy in Venice, but something didn’t gel. So I went with it.
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I had a brief wander into town after packing my things to see Juliet’s house and balcony, and take a self-guided walking tour of some of the other sights using the Izi navigation app. The main street to Juliet’s house was lined with the well-known Italian high-fashion brands. I stopped for a quick macchiato and some brekky, a pretty awful ham and cheese toasty, then popped into the famed house which Verona had selected and renovated as Juliet’s, cashing in on the Shakespearean hype. The courtyard was lovely, accessed through a tunnel covered in tens of thousands of graffiti love letters, and paper notes with hand written initials stuck to the walls with old bandaids, miscellaneous strips of sticky stuff, and no doubt a few adhered with pre-loved chewing gum. I think the days of writing letters about unrequited love to Juliet have been replaced with the instant gratification of vandalised initials on the brick-work.
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It was nice seeing first hand though the bronze statue of Juliet, with a decidedly shiny right tit (from all the polishing it received having been declared a good-luck-in-love ritual, which I decided not to partake in), under the famed balcony. One wall of the courtyard housed a souvenir shop selling all manner of R&J merchandise, as well as ‘love-locks’ to initial and place onto the grate in the courtyard. I was tempted to buy one and dedicate it to the tiramisu I had in Venice a few nights ago, but decided the investment would never truly reflect the love and admiration I held for that short, but passionate, affair.
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I left the house and balcony and ventured towards the bell-tower, through the markets where I found the reddest strawberries I’ve ever seen, and browsed yet more tourist stalls. And no sooner than I’d walked in I found myself doing a u-turn and heading back to the accommodation to make haste to Florence, one of the most anticipated places on my itinerary.

I have now discovered that the cost of train tickets is approximately 3 or 4 times the price (or more!) for tickets purchased at the station compared to those booked a week or more in advance. So compared to the €9 of pre-booking, I forked out €29 for a 1.5 hour one way ticket Verona to Florence. I realised my trip in a few days Florence to Rome would be equally expensive, but decided to book it in anyway just in case, and to check my other impending train trips.

Florence was nothing much to look at arriving at the station, but getting to my hostel was pretty easy by a short bus trip. The hostel itself is pretty shitty really, so I don’t particularly recommend for those wanting comfortable surrounds and a peaceful night’s sleep without the incessant chatter and shouts of 19 year old travellers! I’m not particularly experienced with hostels, but the one in Venice, whilst basic, was full of extremely considerate travellers of all ages, whilst this one seems like what I’d expect of a young hostel crowd. However, I’m so tired I’ll probably sleep anywhere!

I decided, given my lacklustre feeling in Verona, to give myself a break and relax for a couple of hours to recharge. I also had the benefit of time, with three nights and three days planned here.

In my hostel dorm, I met a young electrician from Switzerland – Michael – and a delightful Italian nurse who is currently living in the UK. We decided to head out to dinner together, walking through town first, and I got my first glimpse of the Florence Cathedral (Cattedrale di Snata Maria del Fiore) in the Piazza del Duomo. I have seen pictures of the cathedral, often the aerial views of Florenze with the prominent domes signalling the location in the heart of town, but they did not prepare me for the absolutely mammoth, gargantuan proportions of the Gothic-Renaissance creation. It is more than 150 meters in length, and 114.5 meters at its highest point, and is the most highly decorated piece of architecture I have ever seen or imagined, and it took my breath away. I cannot wait to explore it more tomorrow, climb the dome, and see inside the baptistery with the golden doors known as the Gates of Paradise (thanks once again Dan Brown for giving me the brief history!).
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We went to dinner at Il Mercato Centrale, which is like The Mantle in Fremantle…only on a much larger scale. It is a massive market hall whose perimeter houses every manner of Italian food, with a beer and wine bar in the centre. Gourmet butchers serving the large Bistecca alla Fiorentina, thick juicy aged beef in either ribeye cuts or boneless servings, at €45 per kilo (with a kilo minimum for bone-in!). It is a local delicacy, and we’ve decided to share one tomorrow for lunch so as not to end up in a meat-coma.

Wood-fired pizza, a truffle-themed bar (they had a giant truffle worth €330,000!), fresh made pasta, cheese stall (which I bought a few small samples from for brekky with fresh bread), mozzarella stall (not to be confused with the cheese stall!), pastries, seafood, etc. I opted for port ribs having had a general lack of meat since being in Italy, and red wine at €4 a glass. Fresh handmade cannoli were up next, topping off an excellent night out with new friends.
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Daily summary:
Pasta consumed – 0
Pizzas consumed – 0
Number of love-locks – 13,450
Weight of the next steak to be consumed – 1kg

Joy of knowing I’ll be waking up to my first Italian cheese-brekky….priceless!

Posted by jenniferhall 13:53 Archived in Italy Tagged italy florence firenze cathedral hostel duomo pizza steak cannoli truffles Comments (0)

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